Roquefort was arguably the first protected cheese of all, granted royal protection in 1411 and today a PDO. The real thing is a sheep's-milk blue matured in the natural limestone caves of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon, where the Penicillium roqueforti mould gives its unmistakable veining.
The imitation is any generic ‘blue cheese’ made from cow's milk outside those caves. Only cheese aged in the caves of that one village may be sold as Roquefort.