Champagne PDO may only be made in the Champagne region east of Paris, from set grapes, by the traditional method of secondary fermentation in the bottle. The name is defended so fiercely that the Comité Champagne pursues misuse across the globe.
The imitation is any other sparkling wine calling itself ‘champagne’ — from California fizz to cheap ‘champagne-style’ bottles. Elsewhere in Europe the honest names are Crémant, Cava or Prosecco. Only Champagne is Champagne.