Italy
There are two protected balsamics. The everyday one, Aceto Balsamico di Modena PGI, blends cooked grape must with wine vinegar and is aged at least 60 days in Modena and Reggio Emilia. The pinnacle, Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale PDO, is grape must alone, aged a minimum of 12 years and bottled in a distinctive little bulb.
The imitation is cheap ‘balsamic-style’ dressing bulked out with caramel and thickeners, made anywhere. Look for the Modena PGI seal — or, for the real treasure, the Tradizionale PDO.
