European shirtmakers
The shirt on your back is one of the more honest tests of a wardrobe. Cheap shirts look fine in a photograph and unravel after fifty washes. A good shirt — properly cut, properly stitched, in a real cotton — gets passed down. Most of the world's best shirtmakers are still in Europe. Some have been making them in the same building for over a hundred years.
The Jermyn Street tradition in London, the Neapolitan school in southern Italy, the haute couture houses of Paris, the German Mittelstand shirt manufacturers, the quiet Swedish premium operators. Together they cover everything from a £40 office shirt to a £400 bespoke piece. America imports almost all of its serious shirts from here.
Below: ten European shirtmakers worth choosing over Brooks Brothers, Charles Tyrwhitt's US offshoots, or J.Crew. Most have been at it for over a century. Several are still family-owned.
Borrelli
Ownership: Privately held
Pricing: Ready-to-wear from €280. Bespoke from €450. Premium fabrics push prices higher.
Known for: Founded 1957 in Naples. Hand-finished Neapolitan shirts — soft construction, hand-rolled collars, mother-of-pearl buttons stitched on with crow's foot. Slim Italian cut. Neapolitan shirtmaking at the highest level. Lighter, softer, more elegant than the British. The shirt Italian style icons actually wear under their jackets.
https://www.luigiborrelli.com
Charvet
Ownership: Privately held
Pricing: Ready-to-wear shirts from €350. Bespoke from €700. Ties €180-300. Pricing matches the address.
Known for: Founded 1838 in Paris. The world's oldest dedicated shirtmaker still operating. Atelier on Place Vendôme. Made-to-measure and bespoke. Famous for ties — Charvet ties named in À la recherche du temps perdu — and for shirts in 6,000 fabrics. The most prestigious shirtmaker in the world. If you're going to spend serious money on a shirt, the Place Vendôme atelier is where to do it.
https://charvet.com
Emanuel Berg
Ownership: Privately held
Pricing: Ready-to-wear from €120-180. Made-to-measure from €200.
Known for: Polish premium shirtmaker founded 1990, headquartered in Skarbimierz. Made in Poland. Premium Italian fabrics. Single-needle stitching, removable collar stays, mother-of-pearl buttons. Surprising entrant — quality competes with brands at twice the price. The under-rated value pick. Polish craftsmanship, Italian fabrics, prices materially below the Swedish or German equivalents. The well-kept secret of Central European wardrobes.
https://www.emanuelberg.com
Eterna
Ownership: Privately held
Pricing: Standard shirts €70-100. Premium twills and 1863 luxury line €120-180. Genuine value for the quality.
Known for: Founded 1863 in Passau, Bavaria. One of the oldest shirt-only manufacturers in the world. Made in Germany and Slovakia. Cradle-to-Cradle certified — fully recyclable end-of-life shirts. Wide range from classic to modern fit. The most sustainable mainstream shirtmaker in Europe. Cradle-to-Cradle certification is rare in apparel and not greenwashing. Best value-for-money pick here.
https://www.eterna.de
Eton
Ownership: Privately held
Pricing: Ready-to-wear from €180-250. Premium fabrics (linen, twill) €280-350. Slim-fit and contemporary cuts.
Known for: Founded 1928 in Gånghester, southern Sweden. Premium business shirts known for wrinkle resistance, single-needle stitching, French seams. Wholly-owned production. Hugo Boss/Brioni-tier quality at a more accessible price. The premium Swedish operator. Smart, modern cut, sensible price. The shirt every European executive owns five of without thinking about it.
https://www.etonshirts.com
Finamore
Ownership: Family-owned, three generations
Pricing: Ready-to-wear from €240. Made-to-measure from €380. Bespoke from €600.
Known for: Founded 1925 in Naples. Hand-rolled collars, hand-stitched buttonholes, mother-of-pearl buttons. Particularly known for the relaxed-collar 'Eduardo' model. The other Neapolitan giant. Slightly less ostentatious than Borrelli, slightly more comfortable cut. Considered by some Italian dressers to be the more elegant choice.
https://www.finamore.it
Hilditch & Key
Ownership: Privately held
Pricing: Ready-to-wear from £195. Made-to-measure from £255. Bespoke from £585.
Known for: Founded 1899 on Jermyn Street. All shirts made in their own factory in Glasgow, Scotland. Single-needle stitching, mother-of-pearl buttons, proper construction. The quiet alternative to Turnbull. Jermyn Street quality at slightly lower prices than Turnbull. Glasgow-made, family-controlled. The shirt British solicitors and bankers actually wear.
https://www.hilditchandkey.co.uk
Stenströms
Ownership: Privately held
Pricing: Standard shirts €180-230. Linen and twills €240-280. Knitwear €200-350.
Known for: Founded 1899 in Helsingborg. Made by hand in Sweden and Romania. Casual shirts, formal shirts, polos, sweaters. Premium fabrics — Italian poplin, Egyptian cotton, French oxford. Sweden's older premium shirt brand. More casual leaning than Eton, slightly softer construction. Strong on linen for summer.
https://www.stenstroms.com
Turnbull & Asser
Ownership: Privately held
Pricing: Ready-to-wear from £225. Made-to-measure from £375. Bespoke from £755 (minimum order 6). Wholly British production.
Known for: Founded 1885, headquartered on Jermyn Street in London. Royal warrant. Winston Churchill's shirtmaker, plus James Bond's in the films. Made-to-measure and bespoke service. The British establishment shirtmaker. Slightly heavier cottons, slightly more formal cut than the Italian houses. The classic Jermyn Street brand for a reason.
https://www.turnbullandasser.com
van Laack
Ownership: Family-owned
Pricing: Standard shirts €110-160. Royal Class €170-220. Made-to-measure from €280.
Known for: Founded 1881 in Mönchengladbach, near the Dutch border. Made in Vietnam and Germany. Strong on slim modern fits, premium two-ply cotton. Royal Class shirts use mother-of-pearl buttons and lifetime guarantee. The German Mittelstand shirt brand most professionals reach for. More fitted than Eterna, less prestigious than Charvet, exactly right for everyday wear.
https://www.vanlaack.com